Hantarex MGG 28 Tate

Recently I was fortunate to get a lead from a mate about some old monitor that had ended up at a tip salvage. I was surprised to see it was an ex video wall monitor, a Hantarex MGG 28 EQ model. It was a bit beat up with scratches on the metal casing, some rust and plenty of spiderwebs inside.


However these monitors are excellent for a few reasons:

  • They have an extremely low profile casing/ bezel barely larger than the full viewing area of the screen.
  • They have a perfectly rectangular case meaning it is perfect for a “Tate” set up. This means turning on its side to play games in vertical orientation.
  • The give a pretty decent RGB picture

First a bit of a clean up.

There was some sort of residue on the screen. It felt like dried glue, and could not be simply wiped off using typical glass cleaner. Without wanting to use a powerful solvent, gently running a razor blade to scrape off the residue works really well and does not damage the screen if you are careful.

As this monitor was intended for use in a video wall, it is made to stack with other monitors and has some areas of the tube rim exposed. This was covered up with some black tape that was no longer appealing so that was scraped off, and then removed the remaining sicker residue with Oomph.

Its not clear from the pictures, but this was pretty scratched up, especially underneath as it has no feet. As it is very heavy, it would have likely been scraped along concrete floors in a warehouse after it was no longer needed.

I removed rust underneath with a wire brush, then sealed with some primer.

The front metal bezel was quite scratched in parts so removed that, cleaned with wire brush then sprayed black.

As I was going to be using this in my games room now, I wanted to give it some protection for scrapes etc. I used some aluminium brackets to make corner pieces to screw into existing holes. I covered these with black vinyl.


Now the really good thing is that this monitor casing is really easy to cover with black vinyl. I had enough left over from a previous project to go round the whole casing. Now you can’t see any scratches etc, and it looks fantastic. In the first picture above you can see some brackets, plus I added some feet on the bottom. As I will be using the monitor in a vertical set up, I added some slide strips to make it easy to position & adjust position without damaging the case.

Looks great now! So importantly there are some things you need to know when using these monitors.

Click thumbnail to expand

Looking at the connections above, you might assume that a normal SCART cable will give you an RGB picture using the scart port. This will only give you composite video. To get RGB you need to feed clean composite sync or horizontal sync into pin 12 (Horizontal sync input). To get clean sync from composite video you will need to make an LM1881 circuit or buy a prebuilt solution like a sync strike

You can make an LM1881 sync stripper circuit quite small. I used a relatively large project box for some stability plugging cables in either side. Within the box it puts the clean sync onto pin 12 of the output specifically for this monitor. I also built in a bridge rectifier so I can use most power packs <24V AC/DC regardless of voltage to power the circuit for convenience. I have finally found a good use for my $2 Monster scart cable.

EDIT Feb 2021 – Thanks to conversation between James & Francesco below, to use the SCART on this model of Hantarex monitor you will probably need to place a 10uF cab on the chassis as pictured below. If you read all the comments you will see I actually got things working by extracting H sync from an LM1881 circuit. However I would recommend doing the 10uF cap fix as pictured below:

Image source: https://imgur.com/gallery/RpoJzty

The picture above doesn’t do the screen justice – it really looks great, especially playing games in the intended vertical resolution. There are plenty of resources online about games which have vertical modes, but as a starting point you can’t go past the original Playstation Namco Museum packs, or Capcom Generations.

For some more detail regarding the Hantarex videowall monitor see the PDF MGGEQ3


  1. Great article! I recently got my hands on a Hantarex 29” CT EQ/3 and this is the only thing I have found online with a working solution for the scart issue. Would you be willing to share a diagram of the internal workings of the box? I need to commission someone to build one for me so any help would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work!

  2. Hi There, glad this was helpful. The easiest solution is to buy a Sync strike http://arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices/Sync-Strike::15.html. This device will take RGB SCART in. You will need to make a cable or some sort of adapter to go from the screw terminal into the RGB SCART connection in the monitor. Be very mindful that if yours has the same pinout as mine, it is not a standard RGB scart pinout. The main difference is the location of the Horizontal Sync on Pin 12. See the pinout I have included on this page.

    The project box I made is nothing really special, anyone with a simple understanding of electronics could piece together with the right details. It just takes in a SCART RGB signal, passes through the RGB & Audio signals while running composite sync through on LM1881 sync stripper circuit to get clean sync which is needed for the monitor. You could even use one of these prebuilt LM1881 boards https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/SYNC-SEPARATOR-CIRCUIT-BOARD-LM1881-COMPOSITE-SYNC-CSYNC-PCB-STRIPPER. The output on the SCART Socket has the sync on Pin 12 because that is the pin the monitor uses for Sync.

    Buying the Sync strike as described is probably the easiest option. It could be a little more expensive than making your own, and will need to have a 5V power source (easy) and make/ modify a SCART cable to suit the pinout for the monitor.

    Hope that helps.

  3. Thanks so much for the swift and detailed response.

    The scart pin configuration is indeed the same as your hantarex monitor, it comes from the same series. I have all the manual and spec sheets and connection diagrams like yours so I was aware of the pin 12 issue.

    I think I’ll go down the sync striker route as suggested. From you’re response I’m Just trying to get my head around the adapter from the Sync Striker screw terminal to the monitor. How did you achieve this? Looking at the picture I’d assume you made an adapter from the screw terminal to a female scart with a custom scart cable that went from the project box to monitor with the adjustments to pin 12?

    To be honest I like the practicality of your design as I intend to use it the for the same application. I don’t have a great working knowledge of electronics so if you can be a bit more specific I’d really appreciate it.

    Thanks again

  4. No worries. Just to be clear, for this Hantarex monitor I am just using a sync stripper device in that project box that I built myself. Inside the box I wired it to output sync on scart pin 12 which allowed me to use a standard scart cable to connect from the female connector on the box to the monitor. This wasn’t too difficult to make, but did take some time, and I did have to do things methodically. I did do plenty of research beforehand, and I have done heaps of soldering & making things in the past. I do however use a Sync Strike device with my NEC XM29 monitor. As you are not experienced with electronics, using the Sync Strike will be the easiest.
    So to connect the sync strike, I will provide some basic steps:
    1) The sync strike will need 5v power supply to operate. These are very common, and if you don’t have a spare one laying around you should be able to buy easily online or from an electronics store, even hardware stores might have them.
    2) The 5v power connection uses screw terminals. So to connect the power supply you need to cut the plug off, strip the wires and make sure you insert the ground & 5v wires in the correct screw terminals.
    3) The scart socket end of the sync strike is the input from you console.
    4) To connect a scart cable from the screw terminals to the monitor you will need to either make your own cable, or modify an existing scart cable by cutting one end off.
    5) If you make your own cable, you just need a scart plug like this https://www.jaycar.com.au/21-pin-scart-connector/p/PP0580 and some cable with enough cores within it. Then solder to the R, G, B, ground, & H Sync pins as per the diagram. My monitor doesn’t have speakers, so if yours is the same you can just use the audio breakout sockets on the sync strike and plug into whatever speaker device you want to use. For the other end, going to the Sync Strike terminals just match them up, with the sync connecting to either H or C.
    If you have a scart cable you want to modify rather than building from scratch, just be aware that some cables don’t have all pins wired up, and you may need to do some modifications in the scart hood which can be fiddly – but not too hard.

    So I hope that does help. I’m not sure if you are experienced at soldering – if not, building/ modifying the scart cable could be tricky. When I built the box and the components inside you see in the post, I kind of just started building a circuit on strip board after looking at documentation online about how to build LM1881 circuits. I’m certainly no electronics expert, but can solder and work things out with enough information.

    Good luck, let me know if you need anything else.

    1. Thanks, I’ve got my head around it now with your help.

      Just a few last questions ‘For the other end, going to the Sync Strike terminals just match them up, with the sync connecting to either H or C.’ Does this make any difference? Also will this leave any exposed / unused wires at this end?

      Otherwise, I’m good to get building. Got to learn somehow. I’ll let you know how I get on.

  5. Why a sync strike or sync stripper is needed? Its so easy to just make a dsub 9 to scart female and the monitor will sync without any issues with all consoles and jamna boards. i have exaclty tge same model but 29″ mGG 29EQ. The EQ3 wich have osd and builded stereo amp, just di the same!

    1. Well I did do exactly that before I built the SCART connector with sync connector. Using the dsub9 connector with RGB the video quality was always degraded and a bit dull. I tried this with many consoles and went over everything many times. On my monitor the DSUB9 is RGBI-TTL which I understand is not exactly the same as Analogue RGB so at this point I decided to use the SCART connection which requires clean sync. So no doing the same as you explained did not and would not work on my set.

      1. Thank you so much for all your Infos, I have 10 units exsactly the same as your and another 10 units wich have same tube but a different chassis with osd and stereo amp.
        I’m going to build a proper cable as your advices.
        On both model there was no sync issue by using the D9sub but I got a some sort of weirdo beam limitation when a full white screen is displayed it Is cutted to grey (like poor intencity but only when too white is displayed) and this also on sone units wich have 2000 hours of usage only.

  6. Phew! Just as my sync strike arrived in the post. Had me worried for a second there. I thought I’d check this point: “4) To connect a scart cable from the screw terminals to the monitor you will need to either make your own cable, or modify an existing scart cable by cutting one end off.” Will the cut off end just plug into the monitor without any adjustments required to the scart hood? Just curious before I start to attempt a build.

    1. You will just need to make sure that the relevant pins are all connected straight through from the scart hood – -R, G, B, GND, Sync, and Audio L, Audio R (If you are using audio from the scart connection rather than the RCA breakout on the sync strike).

  7. I’m making good progress with the set up. I think I’ll need to do some work in the scart hood connecting the sync to pin 12. Looking at the diagram of the monitor scart I’ll have to move sync from pin 20 to 12. Will I need to move any other wires? For example moving the wire that was originally on pin 12 to the now vacant pin 20 or can I leave it? Thanks again, hopefully this will fix it.

  8. I’ve not had much luck with the monitor and the device so far. I haven’t managed to get it to give a stable image without there being some kind of sync issues. I ended up testing it extensively over the past 24 hrs sadly without yielding a true fix. The sync strike I received is a revised design so the 5v power is now coming via an adapter and there is V & C rather than H & C port on the screw terminals. I’ve tried two power sources one the standard 5v 1A requirement and another a little higher so there seems to be enough power applied to the device. I’ve used a purchased scart cutting one end off for connecting to the screw terminal. I’ve changed pin 20 to 12 on the scart head connecting to the monitor. Luckily you can do this without soldering, simply unclip the pins and slide out to replace in different numbered slots. I tested this with the 12 and 20 pins swapped then again disconnecting pin 20 (previously in pin 12). I did test the scart without moving the pins first to compare and rule out it working without any adjustments. I hooked up the R, G, B, GND, C and audio wires to the screw terminal, again testing multiple combinations of wires (mainly on the v & c ports and swapping grounds) just to be sure I’m not missing something. I also tried multiple systems connect to the monitor via scart directly and through the sync strike to compare results. I also tried all combinations with the sync / power switch on the top, changing wire combinations via the screw terminal, again this didn’t fix anything. I did hope somewhere in the process of testing I’d have stumbled upon the solution. My only guess now is that I make a truly custom scart from scratch or find someone to make one based on the scart config above. Bit baffled really as I hoped I would have nailed this with all the advice provided. Any thoughts? I’ve trailed through multiple forums but there just isn’t much info on the sync strike or anyone but yourself facing or fixing these problems. Thanks again.

  9. I’ve had a further look at the revisions to the sync strike model I received compared to the ones of the model shown on the arcade forge website. I believe this maybe the cause of it not working as desired. Here’s a link to the model I have: https://youtu.be/QpXB7TWAmUY the only difference i have is is the power supply socket which is still the original two pin screw terminal in the video. The screw terminal labels are different on the website as well as an additional switch for separating sync if required. I seem to have hit a brick wall, I may have to go down the same route as your project box at this rate.

  10. Hi, I’m still having no luck with the sync strike and my monitor. I’ve tried two scart cables connecting one end to the screw terminal and the other to the monitor adjusting sync to pin 12 without success.

    The main issue I can visibly notice is that the sync strike recognises the individual R,G,B,Ground (pin 17) & R&L Audio wires in the screw terminal but no matter what I do no wire recognises sync (pin 20 changed to 12) on terminals V or C. It just outputs the same image on screen when if I plug in the console without going via the sync strike. This makes me wonder if my power supply of 5v 1A doesn’t provide enough power for the sync stripper to work. I did see someone advising using pin 19 instead of 20 so tried that but again no luck.

    I wonder if it’s down to the wires in the pre made scarts I’m using as they use extremely thin compared to some wiring I’ve seen on other rgb scarts. When you wired the female scart connector on the exit side of the project box did you wire the scart with all suggested connections on the hantarex scart diagram or just the basic R,G,B,Ground, Sync(pin 12) and that’s it? I know audio is optional so can add if required. In the scarts I’ve butchered there is a lot of wires that seem unused but some carry a charge which is the split ground charges I believe.

    After extensive research online I also wondered if I need to combine any wires or bridge connections like the R,G,B ground wires to fix the issue, do they need to be combined with the individual R,G,B wires? I did get a glimmer of hope when messing around with the 2nd scart. It would give a slightly better locked image when bridging one wire between V and C on the screw terminal but it didn’t work once screwed in.

    Can you recommend a type of cable to use with the cores required? I’ve tried all I can for now and have until Tuesday to raise a return if the sync strike fails to work properly. As the power supply is a fixed adapter I’ll need to find one with the correct connection which could prove difficult to do in the time frame. At present the only thing keeping me sane is that you actually got it to work with your project.

    1. Sorry to hear you aren’t having much luck. I am out on holiday right now so can’t refer to any of my set up. Something really basic to confirm, have you set the jumper on the sync strike to use external power supply?
      The thin wire on the scart cables should be ok unless they are poorly soldered to the scart connector pins. I don’t really have a standard scart cable I use. Most I have bought cheap at recycling shops. I have also made my own at times buying the scart connectors and cable separately. Most cables with the right amount of cores should be ok. The main issue is if the cable is soldered to the scart pins and only has a couple of strands connected, or has some plastic sheath melted into the solder. I have once needed to resolder cable wires to scart pins so it’s worth a quick check.
      At the project box I only soldered in the connections I needed. So providing the sync strike works, which it likely does possible issues could be:
      – Power
      – Ground
      – Wiring issues

      After I return home when I get home and get some time I will have a closer look at my set up.

  11. Thank you, no worries at all man. I do have the switch set to PSU. That’s something I’ve tried extensively with different cables / wires still with no result. I’ve not soldered any of the scart pins, I can slide them out manually. Hence being able to test it so much so I can rule out solder issues at present. I agree it’s probably one of the issues you listed above. Thankfully I’m determined enough to get this to work just a little frustrated I’ve not been able to solve it myself. That said there really isn’t much support for this device hence my last few posts. Again thank you for all the help. I look forward to hearing from you soon. Enjoy your holiday.

    1. I have had a quick look inside the box, haven’t had time to do any testing yet. One thing in particular I have noticed is that I have the fast blanking pin 16 connected through. This might cause issues if not connected. When I get time I will do a test and disconnect the pin and see if that causes an issue. On the sync strike I don’t think fast blanking is passed through. If this is the issue it will require a mod to make a trace wire from pin 16 on the input side to pin 16 on the scart plug output. I will let you know when I have done some tests.

  12. Thanks dude. Whilst you have been away I’ve ordered a few new power supplies to see if that helps. They should arrive soon. I also bought and tested a VGA to RGB cable as an alternative. I got a red image and no difference in signal via the sync strike. As I say it’s an alternative option which I know you explored too. As for the pin 16 thing, I shall wait to hear from you. I’ll let you know how I get on with the power supplies when they arrive. Thanks again.

  13. I have the solution fot the MGG EQ1 and EQ2 model (the one without OSD), just add this 10uf cap as photo at this link, and wicth the priority setting near the D9sub connector to OFF, doing this you can directly connect every csync consoles or rasberry to the scart rgb . Same mod will not work on EQ3, but the scart works with the sync strike wiring to the scart rgb connector just R,G,B, h sync and gnds as per manual pinouts.
    take a look at this

  14. The EQ1 is just the one I can see on the photo with pacmania, the one wich have analog trimmers for contrast, brightness, Hue ecc ecc on the back

  15. Thanks for the information. Could you confirm what voltage power supply you are using for your sync strike set up? I’m using 5v 1amp but it doesn’t seem to make a difference when connecting any device using the R,G,B,Hsync and ground connections with the scart as suggested. Thanks

    1. Hello James, I have done some more testing. I have found that my set only accepts clean H sync on pin 12. If I try and connect clean C sync to pin 12 it doesn’t work, and if I try to connect clean V sync to pin 10 it doesn’t work.
      Does your sync strike have the option to split the sync signal to H + V?

      Now I had forgotten, but in my project box I did put in a circuit after the sync cleaner that produces H sync out of C & V sync. Can you let me know if your sync strike can output H sync? If not , let me know and I will draw a copy of the circuit I built.

      Now just a couple more points:
      – The solution that Francesco posted with the capacitor, if it works it would be an easy fix.
      – The Power supply I use is 5v 3.0A. I would assume an 1A supply should be ok. I think at this time the issue is needing clean H sync.
      – The blanking pin I mentioned has nothing to do with the problems you are having.

      1. The circuit I used to get H sync is simple and requires a 74HC00 chip. For a neat job I recommend mounting on small piece of strip board or prototype board. +5V & Ground can be taken from the sync strike making same traces. C & V sync can be taken from the screw terminals. Obviously the easy way to do this is if your Sync strike has H sync output, but not all do. References I used to come up with this as follows:

        74HC00 H sync

        1. Hi, the model of sync strike I own doesn’t have the H&V separator. Just C & V from the screw terminal. Which I contacted Arcade Forge about which I’ve had no response.

          Thanks so much for doing the leg work to figure this out. I’m away myself at present so will get my head around things when I’m back.

  16. You do not need to separate sync, just use the C (c sync) only from your sync strike to pin 12 of mgg scart connector, it’ll works, if you have the EQ3 with OSD you have to select the correct input into setting menu (rgb 1).

    1. From this suggestion it sounds like I only need one wire in total from csync to pin 12 on the scart lead going into the monitor. Is that what you mean?

  17. Francesco. If you read back through I have tried putting C sync to pin 12 on scart without luck hence Roxbury’s response. I did ask for you to confirm your power supply to the sync strike to help or anything I’m doing wrong from my posts. Simply chimming in to say it work doesn’t really help. Sorry getting mixed messages here.

  18. Yes, only the csync wire from the sync strike us needed, connect or disconnect the V, the v sync wire, just no difference. I have a 5V 750mA output as power supply for sync strike. You can also doing the mod I suggested and just connect every rgb cobsoles directly without the sync strike just pay attention when remove the board due to the incredible fragile plastic frame, so please doing this with care, do not warry about flyback HV, those monitor fully discharge itself once powered off.

    1. Thanks Francesco. I will give it a try when home and let you know how I get on. Just to be sure “ Yes, only the csync wire from the sync strike us needed” so no R,G,B or Ground wires from the sync strike to scart cable in monitor either?

  19. Fracesco, you may have had different experiences with your monitors, but James and I have both tried sending C sync to pin 12 and it hasn’t worked for either of us, it won’t sync. I have also tried v sync on pin 10. I have also tried different combinations of sending c sync to pin 12 and different positions of buttons on the back. I tried for a long time to get this to work, and the only thing that worked for me is sending H sync to pin 12. If it works for you sending C sync to pin 12 that is great, it just does not work for us!!!!

  20. Obviously you must connect r, g, b gnd and csync from the screw terminal of the sync strike to the male scart then plug this one into the scart connector of the Hanty.
    In alternative you can apply a 10uf polar lytic cap as I shown and just directly connect everything you want to the monitor scart without sync stripper you have only to put the priority selector near to the db9 to off position.

    1. Sync strike just send a clean csync or csync and v sync! You can separate the two sync by doing a circuit using the same ic wich is on sync strike with a nand ic to get h sync and v.sync but it will be just useless.

      I must do some photos to just definitely clear out every dubts.

    2. As Roxbury says and if you read through you’d see I’ve tried these options and it did not work for me using the sync strike. Please do send pictures of all working examples. I appreciate the quick fix and if that works too great. I will try it, However, first as Roxbury has a working example I’m going to try using his solution. We’ve not got here without trying things extensively first. Thanks

  21. Francesco the only thing I haven’t done is add the 10uf capacitor to my monitor. I won’t do that, as I have a working set up using H sync. However if I did not already have a working set up, I would have tried it had I known about that at the time.
    It is definitely something that James should try though. Perhaps James, Francesco is saying that if you have a 10uF cap on the monitor as he described then C sync will work? It is worth a try.

    For the record I have multiple PVM monitors including XM29, several Sony PVMs, consumer SCART TVs, Commodore & Atari monitors. For all of those they work fine with just C sync. Hence when I picked up this Hantarex monitor THE FIRST thing I tried was sending it C sync and that did not work. After experimenting with using C & V sync which is easily available from a LM1881 circuit, it still didn’t work. Hence when I made a 74HC00 circuit to derive H sync from C+V sync, and fed that into Pin 12 it worked. So now it works. Trust me, if it were simple and C sync worked and I would have done it.

    James once you have tried either adding the 10uF cap or using H sync let me know and I will update this post.

    1. Thanks Roxbury,
      My sentiments exactly, I am definitely going to look into the 10uf capacitor fix. If it’s that easy then worth a try. Like yourself I have a multiple of PVM’s and computer monitors. This one just turned out to be a bit more tricky. I will be sure to update once I’ve explored these new options.

  22. Maybe what you are sending is just a clean csync because without v. Sync signal then you should get the image just rolling vertically.

    My pvm 2950 need a sync strike, I send basically csync on the same ext sync connector but without Lm1881 the monitor can be unstable or not sync at all and this with consoles wich send c sync natively and do not have any issues on all athers PVMs and BVMs or TV sets. The hantarex just have a weirdo input scart design, when it works have an awesome picture it’s just a bit sharper than a 2730qm, my Hanty tubes are all 29″ but the chassis is just the same, exactly the same as the 28″, 25″ or 34″, eccept for the flyback, the mkp caps values on h stage and a little pcb module for É/W and trap correction mounted vertically on the signal board. I want made a video with more info about those chassis, there are some caps wich were out of spec just always the same in all chassis and a 27 ohm 2w (r49) resistor connected on the HOT near the flyback wich should be replaced all the way even if it test good because it will fail , also some taepo-china caps should be replaced also if theyr esr is still good…

  23. Since I have the worst English plese take a look at photo in attach, here we have The hantarex Mgg 29″ MMCC and the Hantarex 29 EQ1, both havbe same tda2595 for sync pulse exacltly the sam weirdo scart conector layout, but different RGN amp and neckboard (the MMC is basically an updated rev witch component, OSD and more color temp prfeselection and with D-9sub wich does not digital TTL but pnly analog RGB). To get sync properly you can use The mod with cap on pin 12 or a sync strike to send allthe way a clean CSync on pin 12.
    As you can see I love in a CRTs world…

    1. Thanks Francesco, that’s an impressive collection. This is really helpful. Could you confirm which pins on the Tv scart end are connected to ground on the sync strike? Looks like 18, 17, 9 & 13? Hard to see properly on the photo. That may also be the fix I need. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻

  24. Yes you are right gnd on male scart are: 9,13, 17,18, connect them on the gnd screw terminal of your sync strike, also you can not connect the v sync, it is fully useless.
    Do not forget to put the 3 position switch selector near the d9sub to OFF, you could get a curl/defomation on top of the screen, this is an easy fix just open the case and find the H freq pot on the signal board it is RV1 , play with this until you have a perfectly stable picture and without any deformation.
    Some other infos, the rgb amp ic on EQ1 is less powerful than one mounted on the MMCC, The EQ1 not have the beam limiter wich is is good because on the MMCC I have modded it’s Ic to put to minimum the beam limiter and get the awesome flash white light on fighting game but the EQ1 must be calibrated with the scope to obtain the right color temp and a fully gorgeous white level, it have not color temp switch on osd, just two pot on the neck board (gains), I will made a guide to obtain a perfect color balance.
    There is another real concern about the Eldor Flybacks, you should replace them ASAP with the equivalent HR. The Eldor Flybacks fails all the way due to a poor insulation of the focus and screen pots, basically when they fail the monitor will run but with pulsating focus and/or unstable black level.
    If you have any other further question, I hope to help.

    1. Thanks for this Francesco. I have the 29” EQ3 so the OSD is accessible via a control panel at the front. I will have a play with this set up and feed back. I have also ordered a 10uf capacitor too so I will attempt the set up via the sync strike prior to trying the 10uf fix as I may not need it. Here’s a link to the manuals I have: http://www.sud-automatic.com/images/pdf/CTEQ3.pdf

  25. James, if you have EQ3 with osd you must abilitate the RGB1 port by OSD otherwise you will not get a picture or it will be unstable, check for “INPUT SET” Then “INPUT SELECT PRIORITY”. So you should select the Analog RGB and RGB1 port and save by pressing select button for few seconds.

  26. Thanks all, I’ve got it working using the scart cable suggestions from Francesco. Thank you so much for your patience on this. Couldn’t have done it without the input.

  27. Hi again, been loving the hantarex all set up and working. I’m back with another query though. My monitor screen sits slightly off its correct alignment in the chassis and looks like it can be adjusted by taking off the cover and realigning in the case. However I’ve not opened up a crt before and am aware of having to discharge before doing so. Did you have to do this when working on your monitor / project? I have heard they self discharge but I’d still be wary. Obviously I’d like to fix it but would like to avoid killing myself in the process so any advice is welcome. Thanks as always!

    1. Hey there,
      Glad everything working well. I don’t remember having any issues with the screen alignment. I probably did discharge the tube if I was poking around in there. There are plenty of videos and advice available online how to do it, and a lot of alarmist unhelpful information. I don’t really have a video/ instruction to recommend about discharging but there is plenty of info out there. My main points to add to the process:
      – The most important thing to do is make sure the monitor is switched off. I always check a couple of times to ensure it is not powered on.
      – I use a simple discharge tool made from a screwdriver attached to an alligator clip. Some people advise to use a high voltage probe, that is the rolls royce solution.
      – When discharging, always do a few times, waiting a few minutes between each discharge. I often find that it takes a few goes to get rid of all the charge.
      – The most dangerous place to touch is under the anode cap. This is where you stick the screwdriver to discharge the tube. Never stick your finger there without discharging first!
      – My personal view is that other than not turning the power off, the most dangerous thing about the discharge process is either forgetting to do it, or only discharging once and then picking the tube up to move it. If you get a jolt while carrying a heavy tube down some stairs you are at risk of dropping the tube or losing your footing which could cause way more injury than the jolt itself.
      – I have been caught a couple of times discharging then picking up a tube and getting a couple of minor jolts. Hence my advise to do a few times minutes apart to be sure.
      – In all honesty for what you need to adjust you may not even need to discharge the CRT, but better safe then sorry. Once you do it the first time you will wonder what the fuss was all about!

  28. Thanks as always for the swift and detailed response! I’ll look into it and will approach with caution. I will let you know how I get on.

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