Terminator 2 Arcade Restore – Gun clean & fix (Part 2)

Following on from http://www.tehkella.net/retro/?p=1333. The guns on this need a bit of work. They are quite dirty, and the recoil doesn’t work. There is some sort of black grease on them. I don’t know where that has come from? EDIT: The black grease stuff is actually the bump stop on the gun recoil, which at some point has become black goo due to heat & usage.


First the black housing comes off. There is a bit of rust/ corrosion in there, including lots of rubbery bits.


The gun mount itself was virtually stuck to the perspex. Yukko! But at the same time thanks to the perspex this should clean up well.


Now the gun is off, time to pull apart. Notice in the top left? bit hard to tell from the photo, but the hole where the screw is has had some sort of insect nest in it, and is full of dirt and muck. Carefully scraping that out has made a mess.


After removing screws and carefully prising apart.


Trigger mech.


Solenoid & LED lamps.


To remove the grease from the gun shell used some Oomph


Cleaning the trigger, bomb button and dust cover.


Will use a wire brush on the case mount to remove paint & rust.




Gun casing completely removed.


First part of recoil issue – the bottom left fuse on the driver board has blown.


So I have decided to pull the guns apart to give a good clean, also to assist replacing the rubber stop for sideways movement, and painting the main gun shaft. Start by removing the solenoid + mount.


Main gun shaft a bit rusted


Under the gun mount, then removed bolt.


Removed 4 screws holding base plate to turret mount


Removing bumper stops


Now to work on removing the main shaft.



For reference position of cog at full back and forward tilt


Removal of shaft centre piece


Prepped some metal parts for painting, looking better now with the rust removed and gloss black coat.



I will give some of the metal parts a bit of wire brush treatment to remove surface rust. Because it only needs a lite touch, I am just using a battery powered drill.


To protect the metal with a thin coat silver zinc paint will be used.


Looking much better after a few coats of silver zinc.



The bump stop for side to side movement had disintegrated. To make a new one, I am using various sizes of silicon tubing. After heating up in warm water, the bits of tubing fit over the support pillar and each other with some tapes of a hammer. A nice practical solution that works really well.


Redid the wires joins. Previously poorly soldered with electrical tape to stop shorts, Removed tape, re did the solder joins and covered with heat shrink tubing.


My usual trick of painting bolts


Now I am ready to start putting the P1 gut back together. The gun looks much better now!


Have removed the perspex from the control panel. Did a great job protecting the panel, but won’t need it any more for home use. After a clean the panel looks great.


The fluro marquee tube needed to be replaced, looking good now.


Putting the gun back and the housing/ casing. Looks much better.


Same process for the 2P gun as followed for P1. The P2 gun is a bit worse, with more remnants of insect nests inside.


Oh no! The bolt through the gun lever shaft snapped when trying to remove it. Required some surgery to drill the snapped bolt out. Starting with a small bit, gradually worked up until the bolt remainder fell out.


To replace the screw I had to drill out I used a 25mm M5 hex head with Nylon lock nut.


There is no dust cover for the 2P gun, so made one out of plastic from a folder.


I need to fix up the recoil unit on this gun. It has a broken spring, and the bumper stop has melted and deposited black goo everywhere.


Bought a new spring from ebay, 0.9mm thickness 14mm diameter. I replaced the bump stop with a door stopper I cut to size. Cleaned up the black goo with Oomph now it works much better.


Now have both guns all fixed and back on the machine. Finishing touches to do from here are trimming the bezel as it is cutting some of the viewing area off, replacing some lamps for the 3D screen effect when you get hit, minor cosmetic work on the outside of the cabinet, and that should do it!





  1. Hi, Roxbury!
    Wondering if the parts in the REV X gun are the same as T2 gun.
    I have a T2 machine that works great, but I bought some Rev X guns to gut for their parts years ago. Will these REV X parts fit inside an original T2 gun.

    1. Hi There, I don’t own the original T2 Midway guns to compare. However my understanding is that internals are different, and can’t be completely swapped over. Although there may be some components common between the different guns.

  2. Hi Roxbury! I’ve got a Rev-X arcade cabinet and I’m completely restoring it. Right now I’m doing the same thing you did with the guns. How did you remove the shaft centre piece? Can’t figure out how to do it, I mean I have removed the bolt and took out the cog but I just can’t figure out how to remove the shaft. As you did I need to remove some rust and paint it black again. Thanks!

  3. Hi all.
    I was wondering what you all are using for pots on the T2 guns.
    Mine are still okay, but it might be best to replace them soon.
    I know the original parts are long gone. What are some alternatives to this?
    Thanks so much for your help.

  4. 5k precision pots. Still used today in games. Global VR gun games use them, brake/gas pedal assemblies use them. Check twisted quarter, Betson, or Happ, but Happ can be too pricey. Probably sold on eBay as well. Good luck.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *