This time I sort out harness wiring modification and monitor installation, with some steering mech modifications
Now to work on the harness & wiring inside the cabinet. First thing to do is get rid of the filter PCB. Its not required, and I am sure it is better without it. I will replace the PCB with an edge connector & fingerboard.
For the side which goes to the PCB harness I have added the edge connector, and extra ground/ 5V lines.
Have added extra ground/ 5v lines to the power supply, and run them up to the new edge connector.
For now I have given up on trying to locate a complete set up of steering with spring return. I am going to install a wheel and use it in 360 degree free spin mode which is supported by the PCB. First thing I need to do is remove the bumper stop shaft.
Next thing is to remove part of the unit which supports spring return to help it fit in the steering unit better.
Now the wheel is installed in free spin mode.
Attached the filter & auxiliary power supply back on now. PCB goes in, now ready to place unit back in the cabinet. The edge connectors are kept in place with some cable holds. Finally have re-attached the earth straps.
Time to look at the monitor. After setting up, it was clear there was a fault. the screen started up with a decent picture. However after a few seconds the screen goes blank, and the neck glow on the tube disappears. This is a problem with the chassis. In my opinion the best thing to do is replace the chassis with a new universal chassis from Jomac, the chassis in it is not reliable, and is likely to fail again after fixing. The tube however is a very good quality Mitsubishi.
Removed the old chassis from the tube.
Installed the marquee/ police siren light bulbs.
So nervously switching the game on – the good news is that it starts up and there is a picture on the screen! The bad news is that the monitor switches itself off after a few seconds 🙁 After some research and contacting arcade monitor guru jomac.net.au my options were:
- Repair existing chassis: I decided against this as you cannot get replacement flybacks for this type of tube any more.
- Fit a refurbished Orion chassis: This is not a bad option, but for a little bit extra I would prefer an option that gave you a new chassis.
- Add a new matched chassis to the tube: This is my preferred option, however Jomac does not have replacement flyback for the tube that was in the cab.
- Supply a donor TV tube with new matched chassis. This is what I have ended up doing – TV tubes are generally good quality, with a new matched chassis this will last forever!
Luckily in my CRT stash I had one the right size. However this model does need some surgery on the yoke for the vertical coils to make it suitable. On the yoke there are 3 terminals. The centre one has 2 strands of copper attached. These need to be removed/ unwound from the centre terminal, then attached to the respective terminal on the side they come from.
Now the new chassis has arrived! These are designed to be used in Italian lotto machines typically used 24/7, so this chassis is tough as nails.
So after putting the donor tube into the monitor frame, time try try it out. After some adjustments, we now have a great picture!
So I have now put the monitor bezel, marquee & monitor glass back in. Getting so close to completion now! The free spin steering actually works well enough, so I will be happy to use that set up.
Coming up next – the final chapter in this restoration project – the steering panel!